Visit http://www.idi-insulation.com/ for all your insulation information. The Right Way To Insulate Attics and Cathedral Ceilings with Batts, using Certain Teed fiberglass insulation. This video covers how ceilings and attics require higher R values because of the range of temperatures they are exposed to and a description of the Batts and their instillation

25 Responses to “rigid insulation attic”

  1. Robert Sunderland October 2, 2012 at 5:12 pm #

    Owens-Corning has R-15 available that is the same 3.5 inches thick. They also make R-21 which is a better way to insulate 2×6 framed homes. R-19 has always been used for 2×6 walls, but it’s 6.25 inches thick, which means you’ll have to compress it when drywall is installed. R-21 is 5.5 inches thick which not only gives you a larger R value, it also won’t be pushing against your drywall.

  2. Strangertothepublic October 4, 2012 at 11:30 pm #

    After watching that video, i would have to agree with you there!

  3. smith45acp November 5, 2012 at 5:47 am #

    4:36 I thought he was about to draw a gun on me

  4. wonthefight December 22, 2012 at 2:42 am #

    This was the best demonstration I’ve seen all night. I wish you had a video on weather stripping doors.

  5. TwistedWinter January 8, 2013 at 7:44 am #

    “Drywall won’t support your weight.” Understatement of the century… LOL

  6. bert M January 16, 2013 at 1:39 am #

    Does anyone know how to reinsulate a cathedral ceiling? We have tongue and groove boards in the ceiling and note that we are losing heat on the roof. Other than tear off the entire roof and start over are there any suggestions? There are no trusses or attic.

  7. Rick Lottman February 5, 2013 at 2:51 am #

    Like Bert M, my house needs to have the cathedral ceiling insulated. Everything else got insulated except that area of our bedroom. No way to get baffles down in there, so the only way I see to do it would be to fill the entire cavity with blown insulation….Any other suggestions?…

  8. Alfred Warner February 24, 2013 at 6:06 pm #

    I’ve done one like this before. Your t&g is the finish inside and also the sheathing under the roofing, post & beam framing.
    The roof would need to be stripped to the t&g.
    depending how much styrofoam you would want 2″ or 3″, 4’x8′ sheets, You would then install 2×3 or 2×4 on edge every 16″ oc which would also give you an air space for ventilation, OSB sheathing, ice water shield, then your roofing. Don’t forget ridge vent and soffit, drip edge with vent in this case.

  9. Alfred Warner February 25, 2013 at 1:25 am #

    check my reply to Bert M

  10. Sd D March 15, 2013 at 11:37 pm #

    what is the tool the guy using to fix the rockwool on it’s place kinda a hammer but what ?

  11. megamikkila March 27, 2013 at 10:11 pm #

    Thats how they show you on owen corning website…the makers

  12. Logical Prepper March 31, 2013 at 6:34 am #

    He’s stapling the bats into an open ceiling joist. He isn’t losing anything as the bats are not being smashed. It is not as though he is mashing then into a wall space.

  13. Rock Head May 6, 2013 at 3:12 pm #

    before doing anything make sure your attic is properly sealed such as all holes and wall to ceiling ,etc ,where heat can possibly escape , from interior of home to attic , then put down insulation .

  14. liberalmann May 22, 2013 at 1:47 pm #

    Soo…what If I don’t have eave vents? Do I need to put them in or can I do without the baffles? I have a hip roof, so do I need a ridge vent?

  15. Jaydon Rose May 29, 2013 at 10:50 pm #

    you can drill 2″ holes in each bay, at or near the ridge, and blow cellulose in, then use wood plugs to fill the holes or get creative with some trim or a false beam. This wouldn’t allow proper ventilation, however, making the roof hot and shortening the life of your roofing. Extreme heat bakes the asphalt shingles and metal roofs will expand and contract more making leaks more likely around screws and or joints. Removing the roofing(if metal) would be the easiest way to insulate properly.

  16. Jaydon Rose May 29, 2013 at 10:58 pm #

    You may be able to remove the fascia boards and any bird blocks and stuff bats from the bottom up using a bat that is slightly smaller then the cavity. Different brands of bat insulation are different heights. I have seen R-19 range from about 4″ to 6 1/4″, so make sure what you use is about an inch less tall. Also, Kraft faced tends to snag worse on shiners so I would use Unfaces bats.

  17. Jaydon Rose May 29, 2013 at 11:04 pm #

    My house is T&G. It has 9 1/2″ BCI joists above the T&G and sheathing above that. It is possible it is like you suggest but if the home is less than 20-25 years old, it may be more like mine but perhaps with 2×8 or 2×10 dimensional lumber. Good to have info from both perspectives. 🙂

  18. Jaydon Rose May 29, 2013 at 11:06 pm #

    Hammer Tacker! (find it with the staplers at home depot or hardware store).

  19. Jaydon Rose May 29, 2013 at 11:08 pm #

    Yes, air sealing is a good thing these days! Power will continue to rise. Pay a little now or a lot over time!

  20. Jaydon Rose May 29, 2013 at 11:15 pm #

    He is using a bat smaller in height than the cavity to allow for ventilation. so he isn’t losing any R-value. But to answer your question, the R-value of fiberglass bats is R-3.0 per inch, fiberglass loose fill is R-2.8 per inch, and cellulose is R-3.6 to 3.8 per inch. In a 2×4 wall or 2×6, however, you should staple to the face, not the inside.

  21. Jimmy Purdy June 8, 2013 at 9:02 pm #

    just use spray foam if you want it done right

  22. WSNglobal June 21, 2013 at 9:46 pm #

    Jesus Christ is God, this is the truth. In HIM was life, and that life was the light of all people. Get saved, ask JESUS CHRIST to save you !

  23. Cory Boehs July 17, 2013 at 5:56 pm #

    that’s right Jimmy, I agree that spray foam is the best choice

  24. Gawain Mainwaring August 14, 2013 at 11:42 pm #

    A closed-cell spray foam to be specific.

  25. applejak2000 August 26, 2013 at 3:22 am #

    Assuming you have the budget for it. Closed cell spray foam costs WAY more than fiberglass batts.